Out on the bread run

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Out on the bread run

Author: Craig McGinty

BREAD has an almost mythical status in France so a chance to go
out on the daily delivery run could not be missed. Marie Ange
Lavoix was to be my guide and as we loaded up the van, with the
still warm loaves, she also checked over her route. It was to
take in the surrounding villages, schools and farms with a
longer stop at Villefranche du Périgord. “The bread is different
compared to regular bread as it keeps fresh for longer,” Marie
Ange explained. “This comes about from the baking process so it
means that many of the homes will buy a loaf every couple of
days.” As we hit the road you could hear the bread crusts
crackling as they slowly cooled in the back of the van. But it
also means that inside the van it is warm, useful in the winter
but a problem during the long hot summers. Soon we disappear up
a single-track lane into the woods and discovered a small
cottage or group of farm buildings. And with a beep of the horn
someone would pop out of the house and pay a couple of Euro for
a large loaf, which measures about 18 inches. “Many of the
people we deliver to have been buying bread off us for years so
they know they are going to get good quality,” Marie Ange said.
“But times are changing and younger people especially, don’t buy
their bread from the boulanger they just visit the supermarket
every week.” Driving down a tight narrow track we would come
across a collection of tumble down buildings, with smooth stone
archways and a crumbling stairway to a wooden door. Or the
valley floor would open up and a large farm often producing foie
gras would come into view. “I used to be a post woman which
comes in very useful for remembering which lane leads where,”
Marie Ange said. “And often on the drive you will see a
beautiful view or catch the sun in the leaves, it really is very
calming.” By mid-morning the van had been loaded up again and it
was off to Villefranche du Périgord. Here we stopped in the
market square and attracted a bit of a crowd as they bought up
their bread straight from the back of the van. We would also
shoot up and down the four main roads in the village beeping the
horn, or tapping on the window, as people came out. “I sometimes
think I should stand in the middle of the square and whistle to
attract everyone to the van,” said Marie Ange. “And you always
get one or two who think they are the boulanger and ask how the
bread was made, is it fresh, what does it taste like?” By
lunchtime the deliveries are made and the ritual of the bread
begins again in the boulangerie ovens - but that is another
story.

About the author:
For more articles by Craig McGinty on living in France including
tips on buying a home, the legal process and more, visit his
website and live life the French way.
http://www.thisfrenchlife.com